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Archive for the ‘Textiles’ Category

Clean and green has quickly become rooted in the textile industry. The awareness that the current use of natural
resources is nearly to the limit has influenced design process of development, production and presentation. Every
one is dedicated to maximizing recycling opportunities. The trend is in reinventing ways of recycling with a great
stress on sustainability. The hunt for organic and natural fibers is speeding up. At the same time new innovations
are being taken forward with existing materials like:

COTTON
Focusing on the problem of growing cotton, new stories have emerged highlighting developments, not only in safer
growing and production, but in the improved economics of cotton growing. started a project on ‘Better
Cotton’, involving some 45 villages in Pakistan. Only in three years, the project had achieved a significant 50%
reduction in the use of pesticides and water, and 30% reduction in fertilizers, adding that “at the same time farmers
gross margins have risen by 42%”. Now the number of farmers involved has spread from 2,000 farmers three years
ago to 80,00 today in Pakistan and India.

LINEN

Master of linen and Linen Dream Lab are experimenting a lot with creative innovation of linen fibers. The propensity to crease is an issue being studied. To solve this problem one of the newest fabric being developed is a knit made with very fine linen yarn. The structure of this fabric is very flexible and prevents the linen from creasing.

Master of linen is a subsidiary of the CELC (European Flax and Hemp Confederation), the only European agro­-industrial body to bring together players working in all stages of the flax/linen supply chain, from plant to fabric, including scutching and spinning. Linen Dream Lab, a showroom and publication of trend books for CELC members’ experimentation is an innovative platform that brings together linen industrials and fashion, textile, design professionals.

WOOL

The recycling of wool, feature upon which the Prato textile industry of Italy was founded, is being again adopted for its sustainability, to eliminate or reduce the carbon footprints of the production process. This fundamental development in the Prato textile industry was the introduction in the mid-19th century of the process of regeneration of textile remnants, knitwear and second hand clothing. Imported from all over the world, these materials were carefully selected and mechanically transformed into regenerated wool which was then used to produce textiles at competitive prices. Today building on the same tradition , supported by the Prato chamber of commerce, the new brand ‘cardato regenerated CO2 Neutral’ will certify the elimination of the carbon footprint of the production process as well as the use of recycled raw materials. Certain criteria is required to receive certification of the carded fiber-the fabric must be produced in Prato and made of at least 70% of recycled.

Nettle plant and Nettle product

Knitted Linen Textiles by De Le Cuona

Recycled Wool

Today, luxury is being redefined in terms of innovation and sustainability. Class, which stands for Creativity, Lifestyle, and Sustainable synergy, is the first to have commercials showrooms in New York, London and Milan act as forums for such awareness and opportunities. Fabrics identified in the eco trend areas are certified by a variety of known eco labels such as Oeko-Tex standard 100, Organic exchange and ISO 14001. In this area of new innovative sustainable textile categorization has been done as:

  • Recycled and repurposed (recycled polyester, cotton, denim, regenerated wool).
  • Organic and natural.
  • Innovative renewable fiber and new bio materials.( Ingeo, Milkofil, Crabyon)

1. Ingeo
Ingeo fiber is an ingenious nature based material made from plants instead of oil. Ingeo™ biopolymer is a natural fit for many applications currently using polyester, polyolefins, polystyrene and cellulosics.

2. Milkofil
Mikofil is yarn made from casein, a milk protein which emits negative ions. It is thus beneficial for air quality, it stimulates blood circulation, is a natural antibacterial agent, and is sterile. It also gives skin a treatment due to presences of amino acids.

3. Crabyon
Fiber made of chitin or chilosati and cellulose which are obtained from shell of crab and shell fish. The chemical structure of chilosati/ chitin is very similar to that of cellulose. At the same time it has many medicinal immunization properties like being antibacterial , antimicrobial, high humidity absorbent and acceleration of wound healing, etc. So it is used in medical field, in the areas where there is direct skin contact.

Today, luxury is being redefined in terms of innovation and sustainability. Class, which stands for Creativity, Lifestyle, and Sustainable synergy, is the first to have commercials showrooms in New York, London and Milan act as forums for such awareness and opportunities. Fabrics identified in the eco trend areas are certified by a variety of known eco labels such as Oeko-Tex standard 100, Organic exchange and ISO 14001. In this area of new innovative sustainable textile categorisation has been done as:

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The Pantone has announced 15-5519 TPX as color of the year.

(images next.co.uk and crate and barrel)

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The way to reach market today is by creating innovative fabrics either through interesting weaves and prints or through creating sustainability by using technology for new experimentation. There are aspirations to achieve a harmony between sustainable development, a healthy lifestyle and the dynamic fashion world. The clear message of eco and sustainability reaches through re-cycling and up-cycling. In trend are Hybrid fabrics that mix ampleness and ergonomics, organic cotton and recycled polyester, in a friendly and futuristic spirit.

In terms of design there is a reverence for the past while gazing hopefully toward the future. This can be seen in Victorian elements, gothic architecture, heraldic motifs and harlequin prints. There is a return of bright colors and strong folklore statements, inspirations from around the world with embroidery, appliques and felting treatments.

Dream like nature is envisioned in both urban and tribal settings. The forest-like vegetation in both these settings is either mysterious or nearly surrealistic. Nature enters our living spaces, gives us touch of romance. Green, the season’s directional color unifies this eco modern style that merges city and nature. Warm tones alongside cold tones define this relationship between the Organic alongside Artificial. There is a movement from the conventional to a humorous distortion of the existing patterns and visuals such as checks, flower or geometrics.

Another interesting theme in prints includes enlarged or fragmented pixalation. Using pointillism s minimalist and monochromatic range of scattered motifs and patterned grounds creates optical effects. Traditional fabric weaves get enhanced by performance elements. Mineral tones are the basis for designing this balance between the warm and cool tones.

In this time of global recession and climate change Price, Quality and Longevity are the buying Mantra. People’s attitudes and belief systems are being altered and so will their opinions, desires and priorities be.

Based on the study of Promostyl, Textile View, Premier Vision,  Lenzing forecast

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There were lot of interesting  lectures related to trends in Heimtextil.   PerclersParis, one of the  trend research agency Sari Myohanen presents four trends to her audience.

The first theme was Instant City based on functionality of the product superimposed with sensuality.The next theme was Ambivalence based on sustainabilty and eco luxury. This year we are not talking about just sustainable products but we are adding a new luxury to it. The thrd theme was Envisage based on obvious well being. Its about wellness movement, macrobiotic food, antibacterial fabrics, encapsulated fabrics giving lot of finishes related to freshness and fuctionality with understated ornaments. The last theme was Migrations based on cross- cultural ethnic mix.

There was a  glimpse  of lifestyle products in different contexts – from the eco-kitchen, with its heavy lifestyle influence, to new typographies for table runners. “We are at the moment living in a time of opposing tendencies” says the agency’s senior stylist. One current pushes us in the direction of a sustainable “slowing-down lifestyle” (she calls this trend “urban nature und radical design”). It seeks authenticity and substance and is more about quality than quantity. It finds expression in durable, practical, timeless furniture and home decorations, which “seduce us with their lifestyle implications” and have finally rid themselves of the “purple dungarees” image. On the other hand, there is sense of acceleration and a life lived at break-neck speed, dominated by amusement and fun: high-tech fabrics that are functional rather than sustainable. “A paradox“. And how will the notion of sustainability develop? I ask as a final question. “Natural materials; but elegant. New surfaces and new forms. Bast, terracotta, everything hyper modern, new indigo style, batik patterns”. And I wonder, how come there are these contradictions? If sustainable products, which people enjoy and which are fun because of modern design, take account of the environment and natural resources, and are not manufactured using child labour, then this ought to be a fantastic symbiosis, shouldn’t it?

heimtextil_trendbook_2009-12

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Eco-Fibers

There once was a woman  who decided her underclothes should be made of milk, her blouse of green wood and her skirt of the Spanish broom whose bright yellow flowers scented the summer evenings. She also desired a jacket that hung to perfection, and finally chose one made of corn.

Now this may sound like spinning an improbable yarn. But teasing out fanciful threads from unexpected fibers has become a thriving industry near the northern Italian city of Brescia. “We cannot compete with China in terms of cost and bulk for basic products,” said Romano Bonadei, co-founder and past president of Filartex, a yarn-spinning company that focuses on high-end yarns. “But we can hold our own when it comes to producing customized yarns for clients whose needs we take care of,” from concept definition to communicating with weavers “we know will do our product justice. We sell a service, not a yarn.”

Today cotton cultivation ranks second only to corn as the world’s most polluting agricultural product.

Filartex has created a solution to the problem in a line of naturally dyed yarns made from hand-picked organic cotton, as has another company in the Brescia area – Maclodio Filati. Testing in both these companies’ well-equipped laboratories has shown that fibers unstressed by chemical substances have 10 to 15 percent greater absorbancy to dyes than conventional cotton. So dyeing requires lower concentrations of the color, and finished textiles are easier on the skin.

Maclodio is breaking new ground. The company has started spinning yarns made from cultivated wood fiber registered as Lenpur, an American trademark for which Maclodio has exclusive distribution worldwide, except in Japan.

The timber, Canadian silver fir, is harvested according to ecological criteria, and the yarn produced by the company’s method is not only extremely smooth, but also wears well in hot or cool climates. It has the coziness of silk, the feel of cashmere and the freshness of linen. The fact that Lenpur absorbs water so readily and then releases the dampness into the air makes it useful as light, silken toweling.

Milkofil, another yarn by Maclodio, uses spinnable fibers obtained from casein, the white, odorless protein from which cheese is made.

Fibers were, in fact, first obtained from milk in 1935, when fascist Italy was bent on pursuing a policy of autarky, a commodity self-reliance aimed at avoiding international trade. Under names like Lanital, Aralac and Merinova, these yarns replaced wool until the postwar period. By the 1950s, however, such substitutes had been happily forgotten as an embarrassing blip on the national fashion conscience.

A few years ago, Beringheli’s team rediscovered the process and began testing it. They found that milk fibers are soft, brilliant, anti-bacterial, absorbent and humectant – in other words, the milk protein contains a natural lubricant that keeps the skin moisturized and smooth, and the absorbing power of the yarns draws dampness away from the body, stabilizing body temperature. Maclodio registered Milkofil as a trademark in 2007, and a major European producer of baby and children’s wear will be using the yarn in its future collections.

Maize is the source of another fiber that can be woven for the production of some impressive fabrics. The American firm Cargill Dow of Minnesota has registered its process and supplies the fibers that Maclodio turns into the yarns used for a silken-draped jersey fabric.

Collaboration with research centers in Italy and Romania has led to the discovery of an environmentally friendly process of enzymatic maceration of the harvested plant that produces some promising fibers. Initial tests suggest that the yarns will be similar to linen and hemp, but 75 percent lighter, with the added boon of absorbing dye better than linen does.

The United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization has declared 2009 to be International Natural Fiber Year.

Source:IHT

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Gridlock: A loose crisscross pattern is an organic take on the rigid grid.
Minimalist Blooms: Flowers have lost their leaves and their petals have gone abstract.
Greek Chic: Greco-Roman motifs get modern.
Nest: The bird theme has been around; now table fashions take a cue from their twiggy abode.
Polka Dots: White circles on colorful backgrounds—it’s cute, it’s classic, it’s back.

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